6
EQUALIZING CAUTIONS!
Turn off sensitive electronics before equalizing.
Equalizing causes the battery to gas. You should check the battery electrolyte
before and after equalization. Do not over-fill before equalization as the electrolyte may
expand and cause it to flow over the tops. You should be present during this type of
charging. Hydrogen and oxygen gas is generated during equalization. Make sure
there is adequate ventilation.
Batteries should not be equalized every charge/discharge cycle. Normally, the
battery is cycled between 50% charged and the 85% to 95% charged level reached by
the normal Charge and Acceptance Cycle. Every 30 days, though, the batteries should
be equalized to regain full capacity and extend life.
To equalize, first go through a complete Charge and Acceptance Cycle. Check the
electrolyte level, but do not overfill. Re-check and top off the electrolyte
after equalizing.
Remember, equalizing is constant current charging with a small regulated
current that permits a higher maximum voltage. The goal is to use a small current
and gradually let the battery rise to its maximum voltage.
EQUALIZING GELLED BATTERIES
Gelled batteries are not normally equalized. However, if the battery has been
severely discharged, the voltage of the battery may easily reach the acceptance level
with a very small current. In fact, the current may be less than the 2% required to termi-
nate the Acceptance Cycle. This can cause the system to believe that the battery is full
and switch to the Float Cycle. Equalization may be the only way to get the battery to
accept a charge. Be sure that the battery TYPE # is set to #1 or #2 before using this
cycle on gelled batteries.
The equalization voltage is limited to the acceptance
voltage but the cycle lasts for 3.5 hours. (Eight hours if using the Freedom charger.)
Please consult your battery manufacturer regarding the appropriateness of this cycle
for their batteries.
15
Neither the GREEN or the RED LED should be ON when the engine
is off! If the RED LED is ON, and the green LED (labeled "ON") is OFF, it is an
indication that the FET is shorted or the field is connected to some other source.
DO NOT OPERATE THE SYSTEM UNTIL THIS IS RESOLVED!
It is now time to start up the engine and see how everything works. For this test
make sure the battery charger or any other charging sources are turned off.
Partially discharge the batteries (remove at least 20% of the capacity—it may take a few
hours at a relativity high discharge rate). Start the engine and watch the battery voltage to
see that it raises to and levels off at about 14.4 (28.8) volts in the Acceptance Cycle. With
the default values, when the battery current falls to about 4 amps (2% of the battery capacity)
the regulator will shift into the Float Cycle and maintain the batteries at the Float voltage.
Also check the alternator current by pressing the TIME button and using a milliVolt meter
to measure the voltage drop across the alternator shunt and comparing it to the reading on
the LINK 2000-R. The milliVolt reading multiplied by ten should about equal the LINK
2000-R alternator current reading. The alternator current measurement is inherently less
accurate than the battery current measurement—you may see up to
+ 3 amps error.
STANDBY REGULATORS
Part of our power system design philosophy is to consider spares and backup
systems before they are needed. We have designed the Ideal Regulator with this in
mind. The Ideal Regulator Output Module wiring harness is compatible with standard P-
Field external regulators. Simply carry a spare regulator that is plug compatible and
just unplug the Output Module and plug in your standby regulator. You may use a simple,
adjustable, constant voltage regulator or we would suggest that you consider the Xantrex
Incharge Regulator, which provides three-stage charging, plug compatibility, and is fully
adjustable.
Install and test your standby regulator or any other spares you might carry
before cruising!
