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Remove the binding posts from their package, and unscrew all washers and nuts from the shaft. Next, remove the
main nut that is used to hold the speaker wire onto the terminals- this will prevent them from getting damaged while
the posts are being inserted.
Insert one of the post shafts into the hole and align it making sure the wire through-hole is running vertically. Gently
tap into place until the shoulder is snug with the rear of the cabinet.
Note:
Excessive hammering is not necessary
and may cause damage to the finish of the cabinet around posts. Repeat the same process with the second post.
Once the posts have been knocked into place you will need to secure them from the inside of the cabinet. A lock
washer followed by a nut should be installed to secure the posts to the cabinet. Next, install the solder tab, the
second lock nut, the second nut, and then tighten into place.
Now that the posts are fully secured, reinstall the colored knobs on the outside of the cabinet. When looking from the
rear of the cabinet (terminals should be closer to the “bottom” of the cabinet), the “red” terminal is normally
positioned on the right side.
3. Install damping material
The damping material included is intended to line the walls of the cabinet to reduce midrange reflections and help
prevent standing waves. The included foam will need to be cut to size and then secured onto the walls of the
cabinet.
Note:
There might be excess material available; it is not necessary to use all of it. Do not place foam
directly on top of or underneath the crossover board.
For this system, you will be lining one of each set of opposing walls rather than lining the whole cabinet. Using too
much foam can cause an overdamped bass reflex system, which may result in an unfavorable bass response.
Alternating the foam location between walls is recommended. For example, use one piece of foam on the right side
wall on the front half of the cabinet. Use a second piece on the left wall behind the brace. For the top and bottom,
use one piece of foam on the bottom front half, and one piece on the top rear half above the port. This will reduce
direct reflections between parallel walls on all surfaces without overdamping the system. This configuration also
works well by leaving us plenty of room for installing the crossover board.
The damping material can be secured to the walls with a spray adhesive or with hot-melt glue. When using spray
adhesive, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It is best to apply the spray to the foam itself, being sure to
spray away from the cabinet to prevent getting adhesive on the cabinet exterior. When using hot-melt glue, simply
place a few drops of glue at various locations on the rear of the foam and press into place.
4. Install drivers in baffle
The drivers need to be secured to their baffles with the included #6 screws. For all driver installations, some form of
gasketing material should be used between the driver frames and the baffles to prevent air leaks and vibrations. This
can be done with a small bead of speaker sealing caulk between the cabinet hole and the driver frame.
The caulk needs to be thinned in diameter by working with the fingers into roughly a 1/8" diameter bead. The
bead can be placed around the rear of the driver flange or around the hole in the baffle. Either method can be
used, it is a matter of personal preference. Thinning the bead is important to allow the drivers to sit flush in their
recesses.